British Oxford shoe style is an elegant classic, there’s no doubt about it. It was once created with a refined gentleman in mind, but I believe is time for evolution. I want to help change people’s mindset and make this shoe genderless. Footwear is often used strategically to manipulate women in order to negotiate their femininity. Some men and women describe oxfords footwear as: manly, grotesque and ugly. I would like to deconstruct that gender difference because is nonsense and leaves me so empty. I am a heterosexual woman that embraces my femininity. I also remember my childhood as an island girl who loved sandals as much as “boy shoes” to the point to choose my shoes in the boy’s department. The relationship between women and shoes is magical and gives us power.

This Oxford shoe construction is 100% handmade by me during the final semester of my Graduate Shoe Design program at POLIMODA. The endings of the shoe are pure rich craftmanship using materials and technique with visible seems of savoir faire. Making this shoe from the very beginning,  that includes ordering a pair of shoes lasts in the last factory, to modified them with artisan technique (also adapt them because of a wider foot) and followed by a process of more than 100 steps; ensures extraordinary flexibility, retention of shape, durability and comfort. That is why is considered luxury.  

Materials: 100% Calf leather, calfskin lining, leather sole and full leather heel (2.7cm)

Credits: 

Photographer: Valentina Valdejuli 

Model: Nicole Rodríguez 

MUA & Hair: N.A.R.C

Creative Process

Jay Rodríguez is a textile designer from Puerto Rico. She got a Bachelor’s Degree in The School of Communication from the University of Puerto Rico (UPR) and later she graduated from Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) where she discovered the world of Fibers.

We share almost the same background; BA in Communications and a MA in Art & Design School.

Last year (2021), Vivi, one of my besties, introduced me to her work and I fell in love immediately.

Is rare to find genuine talented creatives in a time when everyone screams for attention, sells a soulless content or contribute to the same trendy lifestyle (waste).

The day came and Jay gave me small retazos (scraps) so I could make a prototype and work upcycling her 100% cotton woven textiles. Go follow her well done work: Jay Rodríguez

Materials: 100% Cotton woven upper, wood sole platform , robber sole

Credits: 

Model: Arianed

Textile Designer: Jay Rodríguez

First things first.

Sketching the shoe design is mandatory before making a shoe by hand. At that moment, I wasn't clear about the design, but I was pretty sure I was going to work with Jay.

There's no shoe factory in the place I live.

So I went to Samuel, a Puerto Rican carpenter in Cayey. He loved it. He loved and respected what I had on my mind. We discussed the idea and the fact that I just wanted to make a prototype for a shoe platform but a completely wearable one. He told me he admires visionary people like me. That I have to keep creating. Humble hearts like Samuel are angels in my life. Special thanks to my uncle that took me to his workshop.

un amuleto que guíe mis pasos

Head to toe, Puerto Rican Women designers/makers.

model: @arianed__
textile: @jay_rodriguez_textiles
shoes: @_pianopianoshoes
pants: @narc_moda
bralette: @skinonion
amulet: personal clay piece from taíno ancestral workshop with @barrioization and alicia chévere.

song: criollo folklore a personal favorite (Puerto Rican protest music) from Moralito in Lucecita Benitez

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Footwear Design & Shoemaking